I have been careful about the Goddess kamakhya, not regarding the kind of worship that is offered to her (Kaulachara/Vamamarga) but the circumstances under which I was granted her audience. I tried twice before, and didn't make it (let's just say life came in the way), and finally it was on the eve of the pandemic that the Goddess granted me my wish.
The first visit to Kamakhya was that of an ignorant fool, bound by some strange mysticism, who wanted to visit the temple more out of curiosity, something about her attracted me a lot. Kamakhya turned out to be the center of the plot of my 2nd book in the making, and yet I knew nothing about her. I tried hunting document libraries, picked up a lot of theory but something was still missing. I had finished the first draft of my book, and I thought I was ready to publish. I made it to her temple twice, it was rather smooth with a 1 hour wait, and very uneventful... or so I thought. But what struck me the most about this rather small temple was the depth and the darkness we go into to see her divine form in just the light of the lamp. Kamakhya blanks the mind out and we come out bewildered, and it takes some time to tune back into Samsara. It happened to me too, with a slight difference. I had just one thought in my head...read the Kalikapurana before publishing.
I took me the next 7 years to source the original transliteration and start the long journey of canvasing through 1300 pages, taking notes from an endless treatise that meticulously documents the mythological story of Sati, Parvati in her many forms, Durga, Kali, Tripurasundari and Kamakhya. An intoxicating journey to learn about the Goddess, her idiosyncrasies, the truth behind the manobhava cave, the power of her presence on the sacred mythical peak of Kamarupa. This is divine intoxication, when it takes root it doesn't go away easy. It upsets the bias, massacres past learning, challenges societal norms, decimates logic and celebrates sexual love, and showcases it pure in its original purpose... not for procreation, but for bliss, bliss from the perspective of a goddess.
Kalikapurana is a treatise not for the weak hearted, it challenges everything that is defined as Hinduism today. It echoes the deviation we have made from the past in terms of convenience and cowardice. It demands respect and at the same time, we need to change in our minds to accept it. Kalikapurana celebrates the Vamachara path of Devi worship and it gives details that praise the Ghora form of the Goddess, and probably that adds to its perception of being infamous or being subjected to false judgement... all because the sexuality of the goddess is out on display and that is unacceptable to our current wiring. I had my moments of conflict, I still do though am a lot more accepting of it.
I stepped into Kamakhya again, with a lot more on my agenda - theory to be validated, practices to be initiated, beliefs to be energized and love to be redefined. I was a lot more educated, driven and ready to accept as I waited through claustrophobic chambers for aprox 4.5 hours till we were granted her audience. While on one side I saw the ignorance of the many people who waited in line with me probably driven by blind faith if I may dare, I really wondered how many would have the nerve to read through the treatise and come back here humbly, after accepting its word, whether they agreed with it or not. Maybe they were better off ignorant! That is a blissful state too.
I walked through the pillared corridor of the mandapa before we descended into the dark chamber. The temple has this haunting exterior to it, similar to that of Baital Deul in Bhubaneshwar, which hosts the Goddess Chamunda. Yes, all our instincts, our intuition tune into the heavy doses of tantric practices. Nothing wrong about it, nothing negative... of course all of this brutally driven by our limited perception, but we cannot ignore the powerful sense of tantric ideology, not just in belief but in action as well. Kamakhya, like Tarapith and Kalighat, boast of ritual animal sacrifice, which by the way are poor substitutes to the original human sacrifice, that of the self in the state of utmost devotion to the Goddess. I observed the head of two lambs and that of a healthy buffalo arranged in offerings for naivedyam with fruits for her daily meal, eyes half open. They expressed no fear in death, this after-state seemed so permanently blissful, they had passed the worst and I wondered, wasn't that supposed to be me?
The dark chamber echoed every verse of the Kalikapurana, not the ritualistic approach anymore but the very presence of the Goddess herself in her aniconic form. Oh! the poetry in the treatise is alive here, and every word comes trues to the initiated. The secrecy of this cave is revealed to those who know and the power of the Goddess is felt in everything. I had the luck to spend a few good minutes in the chamber, the only challenge I was fighting was my mind numbing into bewilderment, while my eyes stayed wide absorbing all that they could see. Yes, the 5 senses had been propelled into action, the mind was dying its death and an overwhelming sense of divine love was taking over to feel the grace within the room. Logic succumbed, divine vision kicked in and I just gave myself up to her, I guess I did get beheaded after all!
The dim lighting, the oozing spring waters bubbling up, the quiet, mild echoes of voices, the complete darkness of the chamber, and the warm moist interior... the Manobhava Guha equivalent in the material world has as much promise to offer as its mystical counterpart. I covered her modesty with a saree that I had brought as an offering, oh! she looked so beautiful. The redness of the chamber, the asymmetrical placement of her fossilized shrine, I couldn't make the difference between blood and sindhoor mixed with water. Her ideology is alive, and brimming with life.
I walked out into the daylight, a different person and far more educated, I had relived the Kalikapurana in all its essence. I hunted for the other shrines, that of the dasamahaviyas, as the panda pointed them out to me. I visited them to get a view of the map that made up the mystical Kamarupa to realize all the Goddess who resided here were rock formations embedded on some kind of a spring oozing water across the Nilanchal hill. If I had to remove all the hideous architecture and look at the hill in isolation, we would be presented with the unadulterated earthly Kalikapurana variant. Wow!
My trip concluded very well with a visit to the Vashishta Dham, the sacred spot where Sage Vashishta did his penance. He plays a very important part in the whole Purana, it is his curse that gave birth to the cult of Vamachara, Kaula Tantra. The ritualistic practices of Kamarupa today, which lock horns with the Samayachara way of worship, documented extensively in the Sri Vidya Tantra, make me stare at the irony - Why did Adishankara fail so miserably when he tried to undo the curse of Vashishta? Was it never meant to happen? Irony is, he expresses his deepest desire towards the Goddess describing her physical form in the Soundarya Lahari to a point that would embarrass you and me, well after he rejects the Kaula path of worship and expression of female love and refused to use his own body to understand the deeper meaning of Kamasutra, when challenged by Ubhaya Bharati (Believed to be Saraswati herself).
What a lovely puzzle to solve, in belief, in ideology, with predefined biases that stick their ugly heads out and challenge us to question... why are we so scared of expressing love, why is there so much secrecy to it, and when expressed is it really the right way or was it just human behavior that expresses carnal desire exposing human incapability to rise above animal instinct?
Do we not know any other way at all? Hmm...something to think about!